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The most alluring use of the sun-colored metal has always
been in jewelry. The Egyptians, largest producers of gold in the
ancient world, equated gold with the sun, the giver of life, and
reserved its use for pharaohs only. The ancient Etruscans created
meticulously hand-wrought objects using fine granules and threads
of gold, a technique still practiced today. To this day, Chinese and
Indian brides wear jewelry of 24-karat gold on their wedding day
to ensure a lifetime of good luck and happiness. A gift of gold
jewelry says love and permanence as eloquently today as in all
the ages past.
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Gold combines four basic characteristics that make it a universally
treasured possession:
Beauty – Gold’s natural color can be further enhanced by
alloying it with small amounts of other metals, yielding a spectrum
of exquisite, subtle shades. Metalsmiths are able to create yellow,
rose, green and white golds by adjusting the alloys.
Purity – It is estimated that only slightly more than 100,000
tons of gold have been taken from the earth during all of recorded
history. And although gold can be found in rivers, seas and land in
many parts of the earth, it is not easily extracted. Opening a mine is
a time-consuming and costly operation, and several tons of ore are
required in order to produce just one ounce of the precious metal.
Durability – Look no further than the nearest museum,
where gold jewelry, coins and artifacts from ancient civilizations
attest to the metal’s enduring beauty and permanence.
Workability – Jewelers throughout the ages have preferred
gold to all other metals for its beauty and ease of workmanship.
Gold can be melted, or shaped, to create any design. It can be
alloyed with a number of other metals to increase its strength and
produce a variety of colors and can be re-melted and used again to
create new designs.
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Look for the quality mark. Pure gold, or 24-karat, is generally
considered too soft for use in jewelry, so gold is alloyed with other
metals to increase its strength.
Eighteen-karat gold is 18/24ths, or three-quarters, pure gold.
Jewelry of this fineness is marked “18k” or “750,” the European
designation meaning 75 percent gold.
In the United States, 14-karat gold is used most commonly for
jewelry. Fourteen-karat gold is 14/24ths, or slightly more than
one-half, pure gold. Jewelry of this fineness is marked “14k”
or “585,” the European designation meaning 58.5 percent gold.
Nothing less than 10-karat gold can be legally marked or sold as
gold jewelry in the United States. These pieces are marked “10k”
or “417,” the European designation meaning 41.7 percent gold.
Look for trademarks accompanying the quality mark. When a piece
of jewelry is stamped with a quality mark, law requires that it be
| Quality Marks on Karat Gold Jewelry |
|
Karatage |
Karat mark |
European
marking |
Percent
pure gold |
|
|
Ten-karat | 10K | 417 | 41.7% |
| Fourteen-karat | 14K | 585 | 58.5% |
| Eighteen-karat | 18K | 750 | 75.0% |
| Twenty-four karat | 24K | 999 | 99.9% |
stamped with a hallmark or trademark as well. Sometimes the
jewelry is also marked with its country of origin. These designations
are designed to assure you that you are buying genuine gold jewelry
of the karatage marked.
Because gold is alloyed with other metals to increase its strength, it can
also be made in a variety of colors. For example, yellow gold is created
by alloying the metal with copper and silver; using copper only creates
pink gold; white gold contains nickel, zinc and copper; green gold
contains silver, copper and zinc.
| Alloys Used in Karat Gold |
|
Color |
Contains these Metals |
|---|
|
|
Yellow Gold | Gold, Copper, Silver |
| White Gold | Gold, Nickel, Zinc, Copper |
| Green Gold | Gold, Silver, Copper, Zinc |
| Rose Gold | Gold, Copper, Silver |
| Pink Gold | Gold, Copper |
Pricing is based on four factors: karatage, weight, design and
craftsmanship. The karatage and weight tell you how much gold is
in a piece, but other crucial factors determining price are the piece’s
construction and design. A price based solely on weight does not
reflect the work that has gone into the piece. It’s important to
remember that each piece of gold jewelry is unique and, if cared for
properly, can last a lifetime.
Look for quality construction. When buying a piece of gold jewelry,
be sure to inspect it carefully. Pay special attention to fasteners or
clasps, making sure catches work easily but are secure. Likewise, the
backs of pins and earring posts should be strong and firmly
attached to the piece, with no soldering marks visible. With gold
chain, lay it flat and make sure the links don’t kink or bend.
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Build a gold jewelry wardrobe in the same way you build a clothing
wardrobe. Always begin with the best-quality basics you can afford
and add pieces. Your basics are a gold chain, necklace, classic hoop
or button earrings, and a link bracelet. Additions can include a
slide-on pendant, a pair of drop earrings where the bottoms can be
detached (thus creating two different looks), followed by a gold ring
or a pin. Begin with pieces that have classic shapes and look
appropriate with a variety of different outfits, then add pieces that
offer versatility or those with a fashion touch, such as matte and
polished surface treatments or two or three tones of gold.
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Gold is lasting and durable, but it can get scratched or dented
if treated roughly.
Gold’s worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure can weaken
gold’s structure, eventually leading to breakage. Keep your jewelry
away from chlorinated cleaning products and out of swimming
pools and jacuzzis.
Protect your gold jewelry by storing it safely or keeping it wrapped
in a soft cloth when not being worn.
Clean your gold jewelry with a cleaning solution of sudsy lukewarm
water, or bring it to your local jeweler and have it steam-cleaned.
Dry and polish jewelry with a chamois or soft cloth after cleaning
and rinsing.
Keep gold jewelry free from dust, moisture, perspiration
and makeup.
Always inspect your gold jewelry for weakness or damage and bring
it to a professional jeweler for immediate repair. Your jeweler will be
able to restore it for you.
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You can buy gold jewelry in many types of stores, and “incredible
discounts” are not hard to find. But to make sure you get jewelry
that you will be happy with now and for years to come, follow a
simple rule: buy from a professional, someone you can trust. Choose
a retailer who has been serving the community for a number of
years and has an established reputation.
Ask if the jeweler is a member of Jewelers of America, the national
association for retail jewelers. Or look for the “J” mark on the door.
JA jewelers are knowledgeable, and they have a wide selection of fine
jewelry that will make putting your gold jewelry wardrobe together
easy and fun. They will not only help you with this purchase, but
they will be there in the future to answer all your questions and help
you with your purchases, repairs, and custom design. JA members
have signed and abide by a Code of Ethics, so you can buy with
confidence from your JA member jeweler.
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Information Provided By Jewelers of America
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